Jeep vibrates when the steering is braked

Vento steering wheel vibrates when braking - steering cracks

VW Vento 1H, VW Golf 3 (1H)

On my 98 Vento, the steering wheel vibrates extremely hard when I brake between 150 and 90 km / h.

then i went to the mechanic who installed it (different from the diesel pump :-).

There it turned out that the mother of the alus had come loose and he said that the vibrations were caused by it.

now the mother has been tightened but the vibration has hardly decreased.

Are the brakes (e.g. discs) now definitely damaged if you have to drive around 1000 km (due to work)? Or can it come from somewhere else? And what else can be damaged by the vibration?

I also noticed that my steering cracks when I am stationary, precisely when I move from the right to the center position of the steering ... What could that be?

I am grateful for any helpful answer!

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16 answers

Quote:

Originally written by G3TDI-EE

Are the brakes (e.g. discs) now definitely damaged if you have to drive around 1000 km (due to work)? Or can it come from somewhere else? And what else can be damaged by the vibration?

The windows are warped.

You can't get rid of that either.

Only doing something new helps.

However, this can also have been caused by an assembly error.

Does the steering crack when the engine is stopped or running?

Can the vibration break something else?

When the engine is running, it definitely cracks as described. if the engine is off i haven't tried it yet.

i had the fibrillation 4 years ago with my t3 which stood still for 3.5 weeks in february and when braking over 60km / h it almost tore the steering wheel out of my hand. then new discs + stones and the tie rods replaced because the axial joint had too much play. then everything was like new and drove straight to the due HU and everything was chic. so change the brake discs and the blocks. because the panes have a rough side blow or worse, cheap panes that dissolve when heated. I had recently seen golf 2 at NEN. after 5tkm they were rusted in one place (braking surface) and after working the place with the wire brush there was a 3mm deep hole in it. :( :( :( :(

so the discs weren't exactly the cheapest, middle price range, so I don't think the quality was bad either.

with servo oil, the oil film is between min and max with the dipstick approx. a quarter over min.

After the mechanic had retightened the bolts, I retightened the nuts after 400 km with the prescribed. Nm. after another 800 km I did this again and they could be tightened a few mm again, but normally one tightening should be enough and they shouldn't loosen up, right?

Quote:

Originally written by G3TDI-EE

After the mechanic had retightened the bolts, I retightened the nuts after 400 km with the prescribed. Nm. after another 800 km I did this again and they could be tightened a few mm again, but normally one tightening should be enough and they shouldn't loosen up, right?

Hello,

What kind of rims or wheel / tire combination do you have?

Original VW rim, or accessories?

Which wheel bolts are loosening? Front and / or rear axle?

Greeting

alloy wheels from alustar exclusive line with 185/60 R14.

the mechanic said the screws on all four wheels were not tightened and that's why the front brakes came up.

oh well ... on the brake tester the needle at the front right floundered considerably. left and back was STILL in the frame (that was with another than the installing mech.)

Hello,

are the centering rings in order and installed?

The crack in the steering can come from the tie rod end.

Greeting

Quote:

Originally written by G3TDI-EE

yes the rings should be ok be

what is the approximate cost of the tie rod end?

Should or are okay? It is important to know.

And they should be assembled. Since when changing the brake discs this

have to be temporarily removed from the wheel hub.

The tie rod end individually, depending on the manufacturer, is between € 20 and € 30.

However, I wrote yes could. In order to determine that it would make sense to

to jack up the car or drive it onto the stage,

to take a closer look at the whole thing. Remote diagnosis is bad.

It may also be that the tie rod end is OK and the tie rod itself

is knocked out on the steering gear.

Greeting

Tach

Quote:

oh well ... on the brake tester, the needle at the front right floundered considerably. left and back was STILL in the frame (that was with another than the installing mech.)

Possibly, very likely, the right brake caliper is stuck. Is it difficult to turn the bike when jacked up?

Have the brake discs and the wheel hubs been checked for lateral runout using a dial gauge?

Greetings Thomas

Hello,

are the correct wheel nuts installed? ?

In the case of steel rims, is the collar different from that of aluminum?

b.t.W a mechanic who has the car on the stage and examines it should quickly locate the source of the error.

rc 46 fi: cool:

did you ever have the wheels rebalanced not that a small amount of weights is gone and that is why your car is so feverish.

It has nothing to do with the brakes.

It will definitely be the steering - probably tie rod ends.

Very easy to test (preferably in pairs). Car on the lift, person X puts two fingers on the tie rod and person Y "wobbles" (in the horizontal position) on the wheel (does not turn in). If the wheel can be "moved back and forth" without the person X noticing anything, the tie rod end is down.

Try on both sides (of course it goes without saying that both are on the same side).

Replace (have) and track adjustment (have).